Sunday, April 4, 2010

Peaches Hot House: Keep it on the radar

          Partners Ben Grossman and Craig Samuel behind The Smoke Joint in Fort Greene and Peaches in BedStuy are at it again, and regardless of a rocky economy, risky location, and two other busy restaurants to run, they’ve opened yet another neighborhood spot. Peaches Hot House is located on the corner of Tompkins and Hancock, it is just a short walk from the A and C subway stops. With great food, atmosphere, and soon-to-come full bar, this is definitely a new Brooklyn hot spot.

The team’s first restaurant in the area, Peaches, is a neighborhood favorite, and the Hot House embodies the community spirit in just the same way. The intimate space is comfortable and friendly, a place to be amongst neighbors and make new introductions. Ben and Craig know their community and their establishments contribute to the mingling of its people, whether they are young artists and entrepreneurs new to the hood or members of the community for decades.

Another reason for their repeated success is that they are on premise owners. For the first few weeks both Ben and Craig have been in the kitchen and serving guests, interacting to find out what people like and don’t like. At the same time as listening to their customers, their own diverse backgrounds bring an unrestricted passion to the menu, and the results are inspired items, which are excellent.

Conceptually the menu is southern, but the techniques and composition of the dishes borrow from international cuisines. Comfort seems to be a theme, served up as a big bowl of black-eyed-pea soup with homemade smoked chicken sausage, or fresh pasta salad, or crispy grit cakes, and talk of biscuits and waffles for brunch. As they continue to tweak the menu it’s a pleasure to taste the evolution of dishes (stay tuned for an article documenting the evolution of their already infamous fried chicken), and sample the changing specials like short rib salad with baby spinach and strawberry shortcake. Be sure to keep an eye out for the desserts, with serious baking ovens they hope to supplement their enticing list of Bourbon-glazed pound cake, chocolate brownies, and cobblers with things like cream pies and éclairs.

While shortcake and fried chicken may not seem health-centric, Craig and Ben understand the importance of healthy and sustainable living. Sourcing ingredients from local farms, they know that fresh ingredients contribute vibrancy to flavors and improve the overall quality of a dish. In so many ways, it is easy to see, and taste, that the Hot House is committed to culinary and dining excellence.

What you can expect from your experience at Peaches Hot House is personable and professional service, thoughtful touches like complimentary homemade cornbread, fresh and changing specials, and all with a refreshingly fair price tag. They are open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 6-10pm, and will be opening soon for brunch. Their culinary prowess extends to mixology, be sure to sample the impressive selection of house-infusions and artisan cocktails as soon as the bar is open.


Peaches Hot House is located at 415 Tompkins Ave at Hancock St, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn (718-483-9111). Accessible from the A train to Nostrand Avenue, C train to Kingston-Throop, B43 to Halsey, or B52 to Tompkins.

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